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Fish and Shrimp Burgers, a Wasabi Mayonnaise and Brioche Buns

Part of the burgers’ charm is that you can assemble them yourself in a glorious tower. During the assembly you anticipate eating the ingredients – the stronger they taste the better. We also ‘bricolaged’ the recipe from different sources. The mayonnaise is adapted from Blumenthal, the buns from an Ottolenghi recipe and the burgers we developed ourselves after several attempts. The combination here works very well for us.

Serves 4-6

For 4 brioche buns (or 6 smaller)

2 Tbsp lukewarm water
1 tsp active dried yeast
190g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
½ tsp salt
20g caster sugar
2 eggs
75g cold unsalted butter, cut into 2cm dice, plus extra melted butter for brushing the buns
sesame seeds or/and nigella seeds (optional)

Place the lukewarm water and the yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer, stir until dissolved and leave for 10 minutes for the yeast to activate. Then add the remaining ingredients, except the butter and mix together with the aid of a spatula.

Using the hook attachment mix on low speed for about 3 minutes.The dough will become smooth but will stick to the sides of the bowl. Scrape the sides of the bowl and increase the speed to medium-high and gradually add the butter. Make sure that the butter is incorporated into the dough before adding more.

Keep beating until the dough is shiny, has no lumps and starts to come away from the sides of the bowl. This will take about 9- 10 minutes depending on your machine.Be careful the dough should be lukewarm not hot. During the mixing, you may need to stop the machine once or twice and scrape the bowl clean and dust very lightly with flour.

Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover with cling film. Leave at room temperature for one hour and then refrigerate for 14-24 hours before using.

When ready to bake, take the dough out of fridge and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 4 (or six smaller) equal parts. If you have a scale, weigh each piece so that they’re all about the same size. Gently roll the pieces of dough into balls to smooth them out as much as possible without handling them too roughly. Arrange the dough balls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the tray loosely with a sheet of oiled cling film and leave in the same warm place for at least an hour if not 2, until they have risen, expanded and doubled in size.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 170 C . Brush the buns lightly with melted butter and sprinkle generously with sesame or/and nigella seeds if using.

Bake the buns on the middle shelf for about 15 minutes, turning the tray around once halfway through cooking, until golden brown all over. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

brioche buns

For the mayonnaise

3 egg yolks
30g Dijon mustard
350g light olive oil
35g White wine vinegar
1/2tsp salt
Small pinch of cayenne pepper

Blend the egg yolks and the dijon mustard with the stick blender in the stick blender container until smooth. While still blending begin to drizzle in the olive oil drop by drop and as the mayonnaise begins to thicken increase to a thin but steady stream. When all the olive oil has been incorporated whisk in the vinegar. Season with salt and a small pinch of cayenne pepper. Cover with cling film and refrigerate. Keeps in the fridge for a week.

For the wasabi mayonnaise

2 Tbsp mayonnaise (above)
2 tsp wasabi paste

In a small bowl mix the mayonnaise with the wasabi paste. Cover with cling film and refrigerate. Keeps in the fridge for a week.

brioche buns, fish burgers, wasabi mayo

For 4 fish burgers (or 6 smaller)

1,5 Tbsp olive oil
200g onion, finely chopped
2 spring onions, white parts and tender green parts, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
50g fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated
450g skinless white fish fillet (cod, perch or other white fish)
150g shrimps, shelled and deveined
200g white bread, crusts removed (1 or 2 days old bread works better for this recipe)
zest of 1 lime
1 Tbsp coriander, finely chopped
2 Tbsp mint, finely chopped
2 Tbsp soya sauce
1 egg white
1 pinch of sea salt

Place a pan on medium heat with the olive oil and cook the onions for about 7 minutes, add the garlic, the ginger and the spring onions and cook for 2 more minutes stirring regularly. Remove from heat and let cool.

Place the bread in a food processor and blend until coarse bread crumbs form. Set aside.

Blend the fish fillet and shrimps together in a food processor until minced. Transfer in a bowl and stir in the onion mixture, fresh bread crumbs, mint, coriander, lime zest, soya sauce, egg white and the sea salt. Wet your hands and knead well to a smooth paste. Place the mixture out on to a clean work surface and divide into four equal pieces (or 6 smaller). Shape first into balls, then into burgers by patting them down with the palm of your hand. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1- 2 hours to let them set.

Preheat your oven grill to high temperature.

Brush the burgers on each side with oil and season with a little salt and pepper.

Broil them under the hot grill for about 18-20 minutes, turning over half way and brushing them with olive oil, until they are golden and cooked through.

To serve

1 handful round lettuce , leaves separated, washed and dried
1 handful rocket leaves , washed and dried
1 tomato , washed and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
pickled gherkins, sliced

To assemble the burger, toast the cut sides of the bun slightly under the hot grill, being very careful not to burn them. Spread the bottom half with the wasabi mayonnaise and the top half with plain mayonnaise. Place the lettuce leaf, onion and gherkin on the wasabi mayonnaise on one side of the bun and the tomato on the plain mayonnaise side. Place the cooked burger on the bottom half and sandwich with the top half of the bun.

Serve with some triple cooked chips and a green salad.

Sweet and sour, Mediterranean style

Published by thefoodinterpreter

October is the season when you get sweet grapes and sour oranges.

Small Shoes, an Eggplant Recipe

Published by the other food interpreter

Small shoes (papoutsakia) is a somehow weird name for a food. There are many variations of aubergines-topped-with-something. The greek standard is with traditional béchamel, but we prefer this topping, according to the recipe of Aglaia Kremezi’s greek yogurt béchamel. The rest is our family’s interpretation.

Serves 8-10

eggplant

The eggplants

5 eggplants (about 1,5kg)
olive oil, for brushing
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

The meat sauce

1/2 cup olive oil
500g minced beef
200g onion, very finely chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 cup freshly grated tomatoes (or chopped canned tomatoes)
1/2 tsp sugar (optional, depending on the acidity of the tomatoes)
1 pinch ground allspice berries
2 Tbsp black raisins (optional)
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

The greek yogurt “béchamel”

4 Tbsp olive oil
4 Tbsp cornflour
2 cups full fat cold milk
1 cup full fat greek yogurt
1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
1 cup grated gruyère cheese
sea salt, to taste

baked eggplants

Preheat the oven to 180ºC (fan) and line a baking tray with baking parchment.

Cut the eggplants in half, lengthwise. Score the flesh in a crisscross manner all over, using a sharp knife. Brush them with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.Place the eggplants cut side up in the prepared baking tray. Bake for 30-40 minutes until cooked through and golden brown and set aside.

In the meantime prepare the meat sauce. Place a large pan on medium heat with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil and cook the onions for about 7 minutes, add the garlic and cook for 2 more minutes stirring regularly. Add meat, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon, cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Deglaze with the red wine and wait 1-2 minutes to evaporate. Stir in the tomatoes, the sugar (if using), the remaining olive oil,the raisins (if using), a pinch of ground allspice and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring to the boil, turn the heat down and simmer covered for about 40-50 minutes, until most of the juices have evaporated.

For the greek yogurt béchamel whisk the olive oil and the cornflour together in a saucepan over medium heat until the mixture starts to froth, for about one minute. Remove from the heat and whisk for 2-3 minutes. Add the milk whisking constantly and then the yogurt.Cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly, and don’t worry if the mixture looks curdled,it’ll smooth out once it is boiled and thickened. Add the nutmeg, 1/2 cup of the grated gruyère cheese, sea salt to taste and continue to stir until the sauce thickens. Set aside.

Now it’s time to put it all together.

press with the back of a spoon

Preheat the oven to 180ºC (fan).

Press the baked eggplants with the back of a spoon to make room for the filling. Spoon the meat mixture equally between eggplant halves, pressing in firmly. Top with the greek yogurt béchamel sauce and sprinkle with the remaining gruyère cheese.

papoutsakia, an eggplant recipe

Bake in the pre-heated oven for about 30-40 minutes until golden brown.

Allow to cool a little before serving.

Oven Baked Greek Salad on Pita Bread

Published by the other food interpreter

Pita bread topped with cheese and some vegetables and then grilled must have been one of the most ancient snacks. It is so tasty and obvious, that one wonders why food preparation evolved beyond it!

We love this variant, with greek salad on top. The tension of the ingredients is kept, it is super light and very easy to prepare. The reward is disproportional to the effort or calories though! The only constraint is that you must serve it immediately, hot from the oven!

Serves 2-3

6 small sized and thin pitas
6 -8 cherry tomatoes, sliced
1 medium onion (120g), finely sliced
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
2 Tbsp capers
150g feta cheese, crumbled
1 Tbsp Kalamata olives, pitted and sliced
1 pinch dried oregano
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180ºC (fan).

Place the pitas on a baking tray lined with baking parchment.

In a bowl combine the onions with the olive oil and the salt. Let the onions in the marinade for 15 minutes, then lay them evenly on the pitas, leaving a 1cm margin around the edges. Scatter over the red sliced peppers, the capers, the olives and the crumbled feta cheese . Arrange the sliced cherry tomatoes and sprinkle with the dried oregano and some freshly ground black pepper.

Place the baking tray on the middle shelf of your oven and bake for about 10-15 minutes. Serve immediately!

Beef Kebabs, a Pistachio Sauce and a Salad

Published by the other food interpreter

End of summer is pistachio harvesting time in and around Attica. Pistachio trees are ideally suited to the dry climate of the area and, although introduced relatively recently – since the late 19th century- thrive. There are not a lot of savoury dishes you can do with pistachios, but this kebab worked very well.

Serves 4

For the Kebabs

800g ground beef
30g rusk crumbs
120g shelled unsalted pistachios, coarsely ground
130g onion, very finely chopped
1 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tsp ground cumin
1/2tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp sea salt
1 Tbsp olive oil (plus some more for brushing the kebabs)

For the Pistachio sauce

100g shelled unsalted pistachios
30g white bread, crusts removed, soaked in water and squeezed (1 or 2 days old sourdough bread works better for this recipe)
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 Tbsp tap water

To serve

2 tomatoes, cut in half and finely sliced
1 small onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 handful of coriander leaves, chopped
sea salt
a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
warm pita breads or tortilla wraps

beef and pistachio kebab

For the pistachio sauce place the pistachios and the squeezed bread in a food processor and combine well. Add the garlic, lemon juice and olive oil and blend.Thin the sauce with 6 tablespoons (or more) of water and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until needed. Bring to room temperature before serving.

For the tomato salad, place the sliced tomatoes and onions in a bowl. Sprinkle with the chopped coriander and some salt. Drizzle with some olive oil. Set aside.

tomato, onion and coriander salad

To prepare the kebabs, place the ground beef in a bowl, and stir in the rest of the kebab ingredients. Wet your hands and knead well to a smooth paste.Cover and let rest for about 10-15 minutes.

Preheat your oven grill to high temperature.

To shape the kebabs take a handful of the meat mixture (about 80g) and make it into a shape of a flat oblong sausage. As soon as the kebabs are shaped,brush them with olive oil and place them on a greased rack. (I use a roasting pan with a rack).

Broil them under the hot grill for about 6 -8 minutes, turning over half way and brushing them with olive oil, until they are golden and cooked through.

Serve immediately with the pistachio sauce and the tomato salad on warm pita breads or tortilla wraps.

beef and pistachio kebab

Jurassic affinities : Chicken drumsticks, spicy and fragrant

Published by the other food interpreter

Even growing up in the pre-Jurassic Park era I was fascinated by dinosaurs. The relevant sections in illustrated books were my favourite. I recall the species, and even now get annoyed whenever one gets re-classified and receives a new name. I regretted the fact that I would never encounter a magnificent t-rex or diplodocus. And then, discoveries in China proved that birds are the decedents of dinos! Not only that, but for a period birds evolved to fearsome predators, on the top of the food chain! It somehow was soothing that I could look at ostriches and even humble chickens and think of a more glorious ancestry.

And, at least, we know how they tasted. Like chicken!

broiled spicy chicken drumsticks

Serves 4

4 Tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp honey
4 Tbsp rosemary leaves, finely chopped
1 Tbsp ground cumin
2 Tbsp dijon mustard
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tsp dried chilli flakes (optional,depending on your spice tolerance)
4 Tbsp dry white wine
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1kg chicken drumsticks (about 10)
coarse sea salt

For the marinade place the lemon juice in a bowl, warm in the microwave for a few seconds and stir in the honey. Add the rosemary, ground cumin, dijon mustard, minced garlic, dried chilli flakes (if using), white wine, olive oil and mix well.

Put the chicken drumsticks in a zip lock bag, add the marinade and refrigerate overnight or at least for a couple of hours.

When ready to cook preheat your oven grill to high temperature.

Arrange the chicken drumsticks into an ovenproof baking dish lined with aluminium foil and coat with one half of the marinade.

Place under the hot grill and broil, turning once after about 10-12minutes. Pour the rest of the marinade over and continue broiling until cooked through (juices run clear when poked with a sharp knife tip) and nicely browned, about 20-25 minutes total.

Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and serve immediately with roast potatoes and green salad.

roast potatoes

Lost and found: vegan olive oil cake

Published by thefoodinterpreter

Did you loose your car keys or partner? Did your boss fire you? Are you a shadow puppeteer and business is not going well? No worries – just prepare this cake with seven or nine ingredients, take it to church, divide it to forty pieces and give it away. It is a ‘Fanouropita’, in honour of Saint Fanourios, a martyr that was rediscovered in the 14^th century, when an ikon was dug up while fortifying the walls of Rhodes. The local bishop Nilos (Nile) interpreted the icon and concluded that it depicted the passions of a forgotten martyr. So the cult of Saint Fanourios started. The Saint’s name sounds like ‘reveal’, and people started praying to him to ‘reveal’ lost items, persons or jobs. As to why he became the patron saint of the shadow puppeteers, no one knows. Perhaps it has something to do with the odd number ( 7, 9 or 11) of ingredients required to prepare the cake – or the words that have to be spoken while baking it.

In any case it makes a quite nice and very easy vegan cake that does not necessarily require a mixer (the cult of the saint started in the 14th century!).

You can always use sunflower oil instead of olive oil for a lighter texture.

fanouropita, vegan cake

For the ‘Fanouropita’

1 cup olive oil (or sunflower oil)
1,5 cup orange juice, freshly squeezed
2 Tbsp brandy
1 cup caster sugar
500g self-raising flour, sifted
1 tsp cinnamon
2 Tbsp baking powder
1 cup walnuts, chopped
1 cup raisins
icing sugar for dusting (optional)

Preheat the oven to 180ºC .

Grease and flour a 30cm diameter baking tin.

Place the olive oil, orange juice, brandy and the sugar in a large bowl and using a hand whisk beat really well until the sugar is completely dissolved.

In another bowl combine the flour with the baking powder , cinnamon, walnuts and raisins.

Add it to the olive oil mixture in batches and fold in with a spatula.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking tin.

Bake in the preheated oven for about 50 minutes or until a knife inserted in the thickest part of the cake comes out clean.

Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cake cool in the tin for 15 minutes. Then tap the tin firmly a few times and shake it gently to help loosen the cake. Invert the tin onto the rack, lift it off and let the cake cool on the rack.

Use a fine-mesh sieve or flour sifter to dust the cake with icing sugar, if using, just before serving, as the sugar tends to melt into the cake as it sits.

Enjoy with a cup of coffee!

fanouropita, vegan cake

Shrimp and Langoustine Giouvetsi

Published by the other food interpreter

Giouvetsi is a typical Sunday dish. It is usually beef cooked with orzo in a clay pot, and one of the horrors of my childhood. I could not stand the slippery texture of it, or the suspicious sense of ‘comfort’ it was supposed to convey.

As a famous greek dish, giouvetsi is of course appreciated by many, but I, as a grown up never looked back or tried to compromise!

So I was reluctant to try this ‘seafood’ giouvetsi, in one of our favourite seafood restaurants. It turned out however that this is a giouvetsi only by name; it tastes more like a risotto.

We have tried to reverse- engineer the recipe and this is the variant we use.

(Adapted from a recipe by Argiro Barbarigou)

Serves 3-4

For the giouvetsi

500g langoustines or shrimps (or both), shelled and deveined
1/2 cup olive oil
1 carrot (80g), cut into small cubes
1 courgette (80g),cut into small cubes
1 onion (100g), cut into small cubes
1 garlic clove, finely sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tomatoes (200g), blanched, peeled and pureed
1/4 tsp sugar (optional,depending on the acidity of the tomatoes)
250g orzo
3 cups bisque
1 cup warm water (or more if needed)

For the bisque (3 cups)

heads and shells of langoustines or shrimps
1/4 cup olive oil
1 onion (100g), roughly chopped
1 carrot (100g), roughly chopped
1 celery stick, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove
1 Tbsp tomato paste
2-3 parsley sprigs
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 cup dry white wine
5 cups warm water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
parsley, finely chopped for the garnish (optional)

langoustine bisque

To make the bisque, heat the olive oil in a large and heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add langoustines or/and shrimp heads and shells and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic and continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes stirring constantly. Add the tomato paste and stir for 1 minute.Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the parsley sprigs, the black peppercorns, 5 cups warm water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer covered for 30 minutes. Set a fine mesh over a large bowl. Strain, discarding all solids and set aside. (Once cool you can keep the bisque in the refrigerator well covered for 2-3 days.)

langoustine giouvetsi

To make the giouvetsi, heat the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan (we usually use our cast iron wok) over medium-high heat. Add the carrot, onion and courgette and cook stirring all the time for 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one more minute stirring constantly.

Add the shelled langoustines or/and shelled shrimps cook for 2 minutes. Add the white wine and let simmer for about 2 minutes. Remove the langoustines or/and shrimps and set aside keeping warm.

Add the orzo in the saucepan with the vegetables and cook stirring all the time for 1 minute, add the the pureed tomatoes and the sugar, if using, and stir for 1 more minute.

Add the bisque and one more cup of water and let simmer over low-medium heat for 10 minutes stirring frequently. If you see that the orzo has absorbed all of the liquid before the 10 minute cooking time add some more water.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, add the langoustines or/and shrimps and cook for 2 more minutes.

Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley (if using) and serve immediately.

langoustine and shrimp giouvetsi

Ethics come at a price

Published by thefoodinterpreter

This is a site based on ethics. After three attempts the Other Food Interpreter decided not to post the recipe for the honey-glazed lamb, because the cooking times were not quite right -according to her opinion, according to mine it was just right. I can testify that I cannot – will not eat any more lamb for the next month -ethics come at a price!

Besides cooking lamb this weekend we visited the circus (it’s obvious why clowns feature in horror movies), had a very good grouper in a taverna by the sea and somehow prematurely considered water sports for our toddler. And read another chapter of Andrea Wulf’s great book about Alexander von Humboldt.

Mr Spock examines life forms

Eggplant, Green Peppers and Feta Mille-feuille

Published by the other food interpreter

Eggplants might be common in the Mediterranean kitchen, but can become bland if not deep fried or combined with something intense, like feta. At least this is what one of us believes-the other one doesn’t. In any case, this mille-feuille applies to hard-core eggplant aficionados and the ones that need something extra to go with them.

the eggplants

As an extra challenge for this recipe, we sourced all ingredients from a range of 3km. We bought the tomatoes, the eggplants and the peppers from a local farmer and the feta from Stratoula, the best dairy producer in the area, according to Popi, whose olive oil we used.

the tomatoes

Serves 6

Base ingredients

1,5 kg eggplants,peeled in stripes and cut into 1cm thick slices
3 medium potatoes (350g), cut into thin slices
olive oil, for brushing the eggplant and potato slices
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato sauce (4 cups)

1,5kg ripe tomatoes
1,5-2 tsp sugar (depending on the acidity of the tomatoes)
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup olive oil

To assemble the mille-feuille

200g green bell peppers, cut into thin strips
300g feta cheese, crumbled
one pinch of dried oregano
a good drizzle of olive oil

Sprinkle the eggplant slices generously with salt and let them sit in a colander for an hour. Rinse the eggplant slices in plenty of water to remove the salt, firmly squeeze a few pieces at a time in the palm of your hand to draw out almost all the moisture, and then pat the eggplant dry with paper towels.

Preheat your oven grill to high temperature.

Grill the eggplants in two batches.Place eggplant slices in a single layer on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Brush each slice on both sides with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and grill 15-20 minutes, turning once and rotating pan halfway through, until soft and golden brown on each side. You might need to remove any slices that are thinner which will have cooked faster. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Repeat with the remaining eggplant slices and the potato slices. Be careful not to burn the potatoes as they cook much faster than the eggplants. (Instead of grilling you can choose to deep fry the eggplants and potatoes. Deep fry in batches in olive oil, place every fried batch on a plate covered with paper towel and sprinkle with salt).

the peppers

To prepare the sauce you need to blanche and peel the tomatoes. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Slice a shallow X in the bottom of each tomato.Working in batches, immerse the tomatoes in the boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until the tomato skins split open. Using a slotted spoon, transfer tomatoes to a large bowl of cold water. When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, use a knife or your fingers to peel the skin off the tomatoes.

Working in batches, pulse the tomatoes in the food processor. Put the tomato pulp in a low wide saucepan over high heat. Add salt, olive oil and sugar. Bring to a boil, stirring well, then lower the heat and let simmer uncovered. Continue simmering for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and season with freshly ground black pepper and more salt and sugar if needed.

Preheat the oven to 200ºC (fan)

Divide eggplant slices into two stacks, reserving the best looking largest pieces for the top layer. In a lightly greased oven proofed dish (mine was 24x34cm) place the potatoes in a single layer. Add 1/3 of the tomato sauce, arrange 1/3 of the green pepper strips and sprinkle with the 1/3 of the feta. Add a layer of eggplant and repeat with the 1/3 of the tomato sauce, peppers and feta.Add the final layer of eggplants and add the last 1/3 of the tomato sauce, arrange the rest of the peppers and the remaining feta. Sprinkle with the dried oregano, season with freshly ground black pepper and finish with a good drizzle of olive oil.

Bake for about 20 minutes. Serve in room temperature.

You can keep it in the refrigerator well covered for 2-3 days and bring it in room temperature before serving.

Stratoula, feta producer par excellence