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homemade ketchup

Ketchup for our burgers

Our burgers are a bricolage of Ottolenghi brioche buns, Hawksmoor ketchup and beef from our butcher. To be honest, we are not big ketchup fans, but this is another animal! We feel grateful to the Hawksmoor guys who included the recipe in their cookbook “Hawksmoor at home”, and we can attest that the result tastes as good as the stuff they have in the restaurants. Our touch is that we prepare our own compote instead of using  tinned apples or pears. For the patties we use our butcher’s mix and make brioche buns according to the recipe of Ottolenghi.

ketchup

ketchup

For the tomato ketchup

  • 1 kg tinned or very ripe fresh tomatoes
  • 250g tomato purée
  • 250 g apple compote or tinned apples
  • 50g onion, peeled and cut in half
  • 200g fruit sugar
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • 50 g Maldon sea salt flakes
  • 200ml white wine vinegar
  • 8 whole black peppercorns
  • 1 whole allspice
  • 1 clove
  • 1 whole star anise

For the apple compote

  • 2 apples,  peeled, cored and cut in chunks
  • 25g caster sugar
  • water
ketchup

ketchup

burger

burger

Start with the apple compote. In a saucepan over medium-high heat add the apples, the sugar and enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil and let simmer over medium heat until the apples are tender and the juices are thickened to a thin syrup. Set aside.

Bundle the peppercorns, allspice, clove and star anise in a small piece of muslin and tie with string.

Place the rest of the ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, add the spice bundle, turn the heat down and let simmer for about 2 hours stirring from time to time.

Remove from the heat, remove the spice bundle and pass through a fine sieve.

Spoon the still hot ketchup into sterilized bottles, then seal tightly and place in the fridge until needed – it should keep for one month.

Great served with burgers and triple cooked chips.

ketchup

ketchup

b2

artichoke moussaka

Artichoke Moussaka

The greek moussaka is a true fusion dish, created by Tselementes, a  greek chef and cookbook writer of the begining of the 20th century. Tselementes  has been demonised in the last decades for not being a ‘purist’ and the rest. Although many of his recipes are too rich for todays tastes, with his moussaka he invented a quintessential dish that spawned more ‘purist’ discussions about ingredients, methods e.t.c.

In any case, during this time of year artichokes grow in our garden, and we use them instead of aubergines causing a small scandal in the family. The greek standard is with traditional béchamel, but we prefer the greek yogurt béchamel, according to the recipe of Aglaia Kremezi.

We think the combination tastes great .

artichokes

artichokes

The artichokes

  • lemon juice
  • 10 fresh artichokes (or 10 frozen artichoke hearts)

The potatoes

  • 3 medium potatoes (350g), cut into thin slices
  • olive oil, for brushing the eggplant and

The meat sauce

  • 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 250g onion, finely chopped
  • 70g carrots, grated
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 700g minced beef
  • 3/4 cup dry red wine
  • 1 cup freshly grated tomatoes (or chopped canned tomatoes)
  • 1/2 tsp sugar (optional, depending on the acidity of the tomatoes)
  • 1 pinch ground allspice berries

The greek yogurt “béchamel”

  • 4 Tbsp olive oil
  • 4 Tbsp cornflour
  • 2 cups full fat cold milk
  • 1 cup full fat greek yogurt
  • 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
  • 1/ cup grated feta cheese
  • 1/2 cup grated gruyère cheese
  • sea salt, to taste
  • 2 Tbsp grated parmesan cheese
cretan artichoke

cretan artichoke

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Squeeze a couple lemons into it and drop the lemon halves into the water. I keep one half of a lemon off to the side in case I need it for rubbing on the cut sides of the artichoke as they tend to oxidize quite quickly. Lemon juice retards oxidation.

Start by pulling off the outermost dark green leaves to expose the more tender, lighter ones within. Once you’ve gotten most of the leaves trimmed, you can slice through the top portion of the remaining centre leaves. It should look like a closed rosebud. Trim the stem, using a paring knife to remove all the tough green exterior. If you have large thorny artichokes with a full choke in the centre, you will have to remove that too by scooping it out with a spoon.  As each artichoke is done, drop it in your bowl of cold lemon water. Repeat with your remaining artichokes.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Boil the artichokes for about 10 minutes until tender. Remove from the water using a perforated spoon and let cool. When cool enough to handle cut the artichokes in slices.

Preheat your oven grill to high temperature.

Place the potato slices in a single layer on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Brush each slice on both sides with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and grill about 10-12 minutes, turning once and rotating pan halfway through, until soft and golden brown on each side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

In the meantime prepare the meat sauce. Place a large pan over medium heat with 3 Tbsp of the olive oil and cook the onions and carrots for about 7 minutes, add the garlic and cook for 2 more minutes stirring regularly. Add the minced meat, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon, cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Deglaze with the red wine and wait 1-2 minutes to evaporate. Stir in the tomatoes, the sugar (if using), the remaining olive oil, a pinch of ground allspice and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring to the boil, turn the heat down and simmer covered for about 40-50 minutes, until most of the juices have evaporated.

For the greek yogurt béchamel whisk the olive oil and the cornflour together in a saucepan over medium heat until the mixture starts to froth, for about one minute. Remove from the heat and whisk for 2-3 minutes. Add the milk whisking constantly and then the yogurt.Cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly, and don’t worry if the mixture looks curdled, it’ll smooth out once it is boiled and thickened. Add the nutmeg, the feta cheese, sea salt to taste and continue to stir until the sauce thickens. Set aside.

Now it’s time to put it all together and bake our moussaka.

arrange the artichoke slices

arrange the artichoke slices

Preheat the oven to 180ºC (fan).

In a lightly greased oven proofed dish (mine was 24x34cm) place the potatoes in a single layer. Cover with half of the meat sauce. Arrange the artichoke slices and cover with the remaining  meat sauce. Top with the greek yogurt béchamel sauce and sprinkle with the gruyère and parmesan cheese.

Bake in the pre-heated oven for about 30-40 minutes until golden brown.

Allow to cool a little before serving.

artichoke moussaka

artichoke moussaka

happy easter

The bad conscience of a meat eater

Seht ihn! – Wie? – als wie ein Lamm. (Behold Him! – How? – As a Lamb.) -BWV 244 ,’Matthäus-Passion’

On Easter Sunday Greeks roast a lamb. That is, a whole lamb is skewered on a spit and roasted over charcoal. The spit usually pierces the scull of the animal or appears though the teeth, next to the prolonged tongue, in pure gore fashion. 

Family and friends gather around the spectacle and celebrate Easter, preferably in gardens and yards in the countryside, among poppies, chamomile and daisies.

Jesus is associated with the innocent lamb, scarified during Easter. What perverse association established the custom of lamb eating on that very day I do not know. Perhaps a suppressed kurgan inclination managed to resurface in the most sacred of celebrations to mock the orderly Christians, betting on the carnivore within.

Or, even more bizarre, it has to do with something much more sinister and ancient: cannibalism. We have not completely lost the association to the living young lambs, sweet and innocent, recipients of our affection. Nevertheless we eat them, teaching our children to do the same. No harm done.

I personally do not like lamb, I prefer a young goat in the oven.

asparagus quiche

Wild Asparagus and Manouri Quiche

For this quiche we use wild asparagus or, if we can get hold of, ovries. Ovries or Avronies (in greek) are the shoots of tamus communis, a plant that is native and grows in the wild in the Mediterranean. They are supposed to be slightly toxic before cooking and the French call them ‘herbe aux femmes battues’ – obviously they were used to treat bruises. Ovries look and taste a bit like wild asparagus, they are however more bitter – the bitterness goes away if cooked in boiling water. They are considered a delicacy, and, like asparagus, go very well with eggs.

Manouri is a greek semi-soft, fresh white cheese made from goat or sheep milk. If you can not get hold of manouri you can substitute it with ricotta. Manouri has a delicate taste (or according to my husband-the food interpreter, bland taste). For a more intense result substitute half of the manouri or ricotta quantity with crumbled feta.

asparagus quiche

asparagus quiche

For the pastry

  • 230g all purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp sea salt
  • 100g cold unsalted butter, cubed
  • 25g egg, lightly beaten (approx. 1/2 large egg)
  • 40g cold tap water

For the filling

  • 4 eggs
  • 200ml whipping cream
  • 200g strained greek yogurt
  • 40g grated gruyère cheese
  • 200g crumbled manouri cheese
  • 1 Tbsp lemon zest
  • 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
  • 15g grated parmesan cheese
  • 200g rinsed wild asparagus, just the upper tender parts

For the pastry put the flour, salt and butter in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and combine until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Change to the hook attachment and add the cold water and the egg. Continue mixing until dough comes together to form a ball. Shape the dough into a disc, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Place the pastry between two sheets of baking parchment and roll out to a thickness of 2mm.

IMG_4632 copy

Butter a 24cm fluted tart tin, line with the pastry and gently push it into the base and edges, allowing the excess to hang over the sides. Prick all over the base of the tart with a fork and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 170°C.

Cut a large circle of baking parchment and scrunch it  up a couple of times. Lay it over the pastry base, fill with beans or coins and bake for approximately 20 minutes before removing the beans or coins and parchment. Return the pastry case  to the oven and bake for a further 5-10 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the tart tin from the oven, let cool a little and then, using a sharp knife, cut the excess pastry from around the top of the tart tin.

IMG_409

Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the asparagus and blanch them for 2 minutes. Remove from water using a perforated spoon and let cool.

For the filling, combine the eggs with the cream and yogurt in a big bowl. Add the lemon zest, the chopped mint leaves, the gruyère cheese and 100g of the crumbled manouri cheese.

Fill the case with the cream mixture and arrange the asparagus on top. Sprinkle with the rest 100g of the manouri cheese and parmesan. Season with freshly ground black pepper and bake for about 25-30 minutes until golden brown.

asparagus quiche

asparagus quiche

nettle omelette

Stinging Nettle Omelette

Nettles are some of the most irritating plants. Tellingly they feature in an early 20th century expressionist opera, where one of the (obviously distressed) protagonists declares that they grow out of her, but is too weak to weed them out.

nettles

Grove with nettles

The grove next to our house is full of them during spring, but we are somehow reluctant to pick them. Instead we let some grow in the garden in Anavyssos, and collect the most tender leaves – of course with long sleeves, long pants, boots and gloves. When cooked they become harmless and add an extra aroma to the recipe. They are great in pies and risottos and make delicious omelettes.

nettles

nettles

Serves 2

  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 40g spring onions, the white and tender green parts, chopped
  • 100g young nettle tops, washed, dried and chopped coarsely (Don’t forget to wear rubber gloves when you’re handling them)
  • 30g dill, chopped
  • 4 eggs
  • 15g milk
  • 80g feta cheese, crumbled
  • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Whisk the eggs  in a mixing bowl with a pinch of salt, a few grinds of black pepper, and the milk. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a non stick frying pan over medium heat and cook the spring onion for about one minute. Add the nettles and cook for 4-5 minutes over low-medium heat until the leaves are wilted and tender. Stir in the chopped dill and cook for one more minute.

Add the whisked eggs and milk mixture. Tilt the frying pan so that the uncooked eggs flow into the open spaces. When the bottom of the omelette is cooked and lightly brown after about 2 minutes, sprinkle the crumbled feta on top and season with some freshly ground black pepper. Fold the omelette in half and cook for 1 more minute. (If the omelette still looks a little underdone to your taste, cover the pan and let cook for about 1 more minute).

nettle omelette

nettle omelette

nettle omelette

nettle omelette

spaghetti with bottarga

Spaghetti with Bottarga

Bottarga either you like or you don’t. As for us, we think it’s unique. The greek version (avgotaraho) is cured grey mullet roe and is produced in the lagoon of Messologi (and nearby Aitoliko) in western Greece, where the romantic poet Lord Byron caught a cold and died in 1824.

The most renowned greek producer is Zafeiris Trikalinos, a man with a vision.  The family business started in 1856, when stories about Lord Byron were probably still told by people who witnessed them first hand. Mr. Trikalinos likes to stress the nutritional benefits of his product, as if anyone needs to be convinced to consume it!

Avgotaraho is not cheep, nevertheless in the following recipe we advocate that more is better!

Serves 4

  • 500g spaghetti
  • 8 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 200g leeks, white and tender green parts, finely chopped
  • 3 spring onions, finely chopped
  • 1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
  • 2 Tbsp parsley, finely chopped
  • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 Tbsp lemon juice
  • bottarga, 32 very thin slices
  • zest of one lemon

Mix the bottarga slices with the lemon juice and 4 table spoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and set aside.

Heat 4 table spoons of the olive oil in a large  saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped leeks and cook for 5 minutes stirring constantly. Add the spring onions and cook for 4-5 more minutes. Add the garlic and stir for one more minute. Add sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Meanwhile, bring a very large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta and cook for 8-12 minutes according to the instructions on the package. Save about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Drain the pasta well and immediately add it to the leek and onion mixture. Add the parsley and the lemon zest. Save about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Toss to coat the strands of spaghetti. If strands are sticking together and you need to loosen or help the ingredients add some of the reserved pasta water. Stir in half of the bottarga slices with their lemon and olive oil sauce.

Divide between the plates, arrange the remaining bottarga slices on top, season with lots of freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.